Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.